Toilet Partitions Handbook

Knowing your Bathroom Stall Types.

There are various other restroom partition types and once you factor in the brand names and such, really start to overlap one another. This is why we sell the basics as well some advanced. One type of toilet stalls we don’t sell, is wooden bathroom stalls. One of the main reasons is that wooden restroom partitions are custom built, most other manufacturers & distributors don’t sell wooden partitions either. Most other toilet partitions are in some part including wood in their construction, however the solid wooden stalls you might of seen on your night out, were custom built, if you’re still set on purchasing wooden restroom stalls, a better place to inquire about them at is a woodshop.

Powder Coated Steel Restroom stalls

are our most popular product. Out of reliability and durability, these toilet dividers will last through most wear and tear. Your toilets & sinks will have issues before these partitions do.

High Pressure Laminate Bathroom Partitions

are a great choice if budgeting plays a crucial role in your ordering, high pressure laminate would be a great alternative to powder coated steel. Unless you need toilet dividers in a higher than normal moisture area. Then we recommend a solid phenolic or solid plastic (HDPE) bathroom stall, since they will handle the moisture much better.

Solid Color Reinforced Composite

are very durable and resistant to moisture, dents, impacts and scratches.

Solid plastic (HDPE)

is another popular customer choice due to the solid plastic design. These toilet stalls are non-porous & great choice for areas such as showers, pools or water parks.

Stainless Steel

is a popular choice for hospitals and most places seeking that eloquent look and feel. Not only do they boast a rust-resistant stainless steel composition but they also have that sleek, polished aesthetic feel many businesses are seeking.

Solid Phenolic

are one of the strongest in the industry, touting a 25 year warranty, what other items can you buy in today’s world with such a guarantee? These stalls are also great for high moisture areas due to their solid resin core wrapped in durable plastic. These partitions are coated in a layer of melamine allowing for easier clean up using only liquid soap.

Finding the Best material for you!

Buying bathroom stalls doesn’t have to be such a hard process and you certainly don’t want to have to order more after ordering the wrong type for your facility. This is why we created this handbook in the 1st place. So let’s get started in helping you figure the best type to order.

High moisture areas –
Solid phenolic
Solid plastic (HDPE)

Higher than normal vandalism areas –
Solid phenolic
Solid plastic (HDPE)

High traffic / large scale usage –
Solid phenolic
Solid plastic (HDPE)
High Pressure Laminate
Powder Coated Steel

High traffic / low budget –
Powder Coated Steel
High Pressure Laminate

High traffic / High Sanitation Needs –
Solid phenolic
Solid plastic (HDPE)
Stainless Steel

High traffic with a weight limit –
Stainless Steel
Powder Coated Steel

Ready to buy? What to consider beforehand.

Once you figure out what restroom stalls you want to purchase, you may feel that the worst part is behind you. We can speak from the experience of answering many questions regarding drilling the wrong holes, installing stalls in wrong configurations and much more, that there is plenty to still possibly make a mistake with. In this section we’ll try to keep you focused while bringing up certain highlights to make sure you’ve got all your bases covered.

One of the biggest and most easiest mistakes to make, is the layout. Make sure you have your plans correctly labeled, that the measurements are accurate to the best of your knowledge. If working with several people, this is where things easily can go wrong and fast. It’s not that much effort to double check measurements, material restrictions, possible custom configurations that could impact your standard toilet stall layout. Double checking these things is a little bit of extra work, but it’s a better alternative than having to complete this whole process a second time.

When you make an order with us, it normally starts with a quote, you’ll send in a drawing or photo with some basic measurements for the walls and openings, we’ll apply that drawing to a layout that best fits your requirements and we’ll clearly label the layout, with partition measurements and then we’ll seek your approval.

This is that major step where you’ll need to verify 100% that this is what you want to purchase. We’ve tried to simplify this process for you as much as we can, but we still need you to double check to the best of your ability, since once it’s agreed on, it’s entered into our software to be ordered and cut by the manufacturer.

Here is a small checklist to go through to help save some time, feel free to add onto this:

For the Men’s Room:

How many stalls do you have?
Is there a sidewall on each side or just one side?
How many toilet in total?
Do you need a screen / partition in between the urinals?
Are any of these stalls handicap accessible?

For the Women’s Room:

How many stalls do you have?
Is there a sidewall on each side or just one side?
How many toilet in total?
Are any of these stalls handicap accessible?

 

Measure twice, cut once!

You may think that this is self explanatory, but we do still get a good amount of calls asking to change a size after the order has been made and those specs sent to the manufacturer to be cut / milled. There is no window of time to make measurement corrections once you agree on the layout / order and we quote you for it. Once that is passed and you agree on the measurements there isn’t much that can be done, you’ve ordered a piece that isn’t the size you need and we don’t do returns, so that piece will need to be reordered. This is why it’s crucial to double and even sometimes triple check your toilet stall measurements to avoid such a costly mistake.

It’s important that the measurement process is done with the utmost attention to detail in mind. You don’t want to realize a few days or more after you’ve ordered, that you need a wall to close off a stall because you measured it using an existing wall, when in reality there isn’t an existing wall where you measured. Or that you measured everything the right way, but had contractors come in and add about 2 inches or more of drywall and studs to the room, creating completely different dimensions to work with. So please, this step of the process is one of the most important steps, it’s more than alright to become a little overboard with attention to detail when measuring your room dimensions.

How to avoid a costly toilet stall installation.

Our layouts aren’t just for our benefit during the quoting process, it’s also a great place for you to check and make sure this is how you want your bathroom partitions to look and be placed. Ask as many questions as you can think of, since they’re free and can save a lot of headache later on. There’s no such thing as a dumb question, only dumb answers. Plus we’re here to answer your questions and make you feel as relaxed as you can about your order.

We have several installation pdfs to choose from based on your toilet stall type. We’ll be adding much more in the coming months, from detailed photo instructions to narrated videos to guide you through the process of installation.

A good rule of thumb is to not assume there is nothing to the installation of your stalls and to just “ wing it “. This is a number one reason for improperly installed stalls. A good practice is to before you even begin the ordering process, find an image of a setup you want to mimic or a crude sketch / drawing will work. Something to help guide you along the path and even reference later on.

When measuring use a chalk line to keep dimensions visible and even use tape or pencil markers for places chalk lines won’t work on. These reference points can help you quickly keep in mind where you are in relation to the overall project. Before drilling holes and cutting pieces try to imagine where that piece is going, you may see that you were about to use a piece that didn’t belong.

How to keep your restroom stalls looking new.

Powder Coated Steel

Cleaning:
Dust or Dirt: Use a cloth or paper towel to wipe off.
Soil, grease & water spots: Use warm water & a mild cleaner.
Wipe off remaining moisture, to prevent further spots.
Hardware: can maintain a clean appearance with use of a non-abrasive cleaner and a dampened cloth.

Graffiti Cleaners:
Specialized graffiti cleaners: can safely be used on anti-graffiti powder coatings.
Commercial graffiti cleaners: are NOT recommended on a normal powder coating finish.

High Pressure Laminate

Cleaning:
Fingerprints, smudges, or other sediment: a mild cleaning solution can be applied to effectively remove these minor marks. If the surface is smooth, using a cloth or sponge is recommended; if the surface is textured, a soft brush will work. Rinse & dry completely for best results.

Greased soil, oil, crayon, or even lipstick: use a mild degreaser or general purpose cleaner. Wet a cloth, sponge, or soft bristled brush with the cleaner of choice and apply it to the soiled area. Rinse and dry all the way.

Watermarking or scaling: use of a stronger cleaning agent is required. Bathroom cleaners with acetic acid are the optimal choice for removal of these stains — use a cloth, sponge, or soft-bristled brush with the cleaning solution on it, and rinse/dry completely.

Graffiti: bathroom cleaners or other cleaning solutions will likely not do an acceptable job removing it. For situations where this has occurred, it is advised to use a special graffiti remover. Apply to the affected surface by spraying or wiping the remover on, while using a cloth or sponge. Rinse and dry completely.

Solid Color Reinforced Composite

Cleaning:
CAN I POWERWASH REINFORCED COMPOSITE?
Yes

BASIC CLEANING
Remove any formed dirt and/or using a soft cloth.

Make sure partitions in shower or hose-down areas are in well ventilated areas to allow for extra humidity to dry.

Specialized graffiti removers can safely be used on anti-graffiti ( SCRC ) coatings.

Apply self-cleaning wax routinely will make the graffiti cleaning easier. These products are gentle and normally don’t need stripping.

NOTE: Don’t clean with harsh cleaners that have abrasives, acids, or alkalis, they’ll etch, discolor or damage the surface.

These kind of cleaners include:
Abrasive powder cleaners
Toilet bowl cleaners
Rust removers
Ceramic tile cleaners

FOR GRAFFITI
Use a high quality concentrated D-limonene based solvent ( such as Bobrick Graffiti Remover ) applied with a soft cloth;
This works for issues from:
Permanent Marker
Acrylic
Enamel Spray Paints
Markers ( containing Xylene )
Metallic Markers
Laundry Pens
Paint Pens
For tough stains apply cleaner using nylon scrub pad.
Caution: Many solvents are very flammable, keep away from sparks and open flames.

FOR SCRATCHES
SCRC is resistant to scratches, however sharp objects can still cause damage. If this happens, you can sand the area or fill the scratch with a matching color crayon.

FOR BURN MARKS OR GOUGES
Use an electric sander with a coarse 80-grit sandpaper to sand the affected area. Re-sand the area using a medium 180-grit sandpaper. Then to blend the color into the surrounding area, wet-sand the area using a fine 2000-grit wet / dry sandpaper.

Solid Plastic (HDPE)

Cleaning:
General Cleaning: is accomplished simply on a solid plastic restroom stalls.
Making maintenance a regular habit will keep upkeep costs low and reduce overall hassle in the long run.
General soiling: acceptable appearance can be reestablished through use of water and a mild cleaner on the surface.
Tough stains: a cleaning solution containing 1⁄2 cup of household detergent, 2⁄3 cup of trisodium phosphate, and 1 gallon of water is suggested.
Alternatively, any non-abrasive industrial-strength cleaner will suffice.

Stainless Steel

Cleaning:
Dirt Buildup: can be removed with a metal cleaner that is specially intended for a stainless steel surface.
Mineral deposits: needing to be scoured can be removed with a slightly abrasive powder like Ajax.
Tougher markings like fingerprints, grease, and oil: can be removed with a solution containing a detergent, water, and a solvent like acetone or kerosene. If these markings appear on the surface, rub the cleaning solution in the direction of the metal’s grain.
Once the stainless steel has been treated with the appropriate cleaning solution and cleaned appropriately, be sure to rinse the surface with clear water. Wipe with a soft cloth thoroughly to reduce and remove all traces of the cleaner — again, rub and wipe in the direction of the metal’s grain.

Solid Phenolic Core

Cleaning:
Smudges, fingerprints, or other residues: found on a solid phenolic bathroom stall’s surface can be removed with a mild cleaning solution. Smooth surfaces can be cleaned with a cloth and/or sponge; textured surfaces can be cleaned with a soft brush. Rinse thoroughly, and dry.
Oil, crayon, lipstick, greased soil and other difficult stains: can be removed with a general purpose cleaner, or a mild degreaser. Dampen either a cloth, sponge, or a soft bristled brush with the corresponding cleaner and apply it to the affected area. Rinse and dry thoroughly.
Extremely difficult soiling, like water and soiling: requires a more powerful cleaner than a mild detergent/general purpose cleaner. A bathroom cleaner containing acetic acid is a great choice for removal of the stain. Wet a cloth, sponge, or soft bristled brush with the desired cleaner, and rinse/dry thoroughly.
Graffiti: Solid Phenolic whose surfaces have been affected by graffiti cannot be cleaned with ordinary cleaners and/or detergents. Instead, they have to be appropriately treated with a graffiti remover. Spray or wipe the remover onto the surface with a cloth or sponge, and rinse/dry fully.